How to choose the perfect tripod a head

The function of a tripod is deceptively simple—to hold your camera steady in any position you want. Yet, finding a tripod that can do this easily, precisely, and comfortably is far from simple.

At best, any tripod is a compromise between size, weight, flexibility, convenience, and cost: the secret is to settle on a model that is as compatible with your needs as possible.
Always remember that there is no perfect tripod and that the least expensive models are apt to prove the least satisfactory when you try to use them. What should you look for when shopping for a tripod?, you can buy the best tripod and compare it at this web site http://wize.com/tripods

Size
Your tripod should be high enough to position your camera at eye level. For most photographers, this means a basic height of between 60 and 70 inches. Do not count the centerpost when calculating working height; the centerpost is really for making minor adjustments, not for supporting your camera.

Weight
One of the unfortunate rules of photography is that the weight of a tripod is proportional to its stability. This means that, all things being equal, a heavier tripod is apt to be far more stable than a lighter one. However, the recent introduction of tripods using carbon fiber construction has made it possible to produce lighter models yet with excellent stability and strength. The only real drawback of carbon fiber is that it is more expensive than comparable non-carbon fiber tripods.

In general, avoid very light, multi-section tripods that may not only be flimsy but slow to set up. For most purposes, a two- or three-section tripod weighing about seven to nine pounds should fit the bill for 35mm and medium-format cameras.

Head
The head is the most important component of any tripod. Our suggestion here is to get a two-handle pan-and-tilt head that can be adjusted easily and precisely for vertical or horizontal positions or anything in between. These heads are preferred to the single-handle pan heads that were originally developed for movie cameras requiring horizontal positioning only. A single-handle head can be used but it is not nearly as convenient or as precise as the two-handle type.

Slik Sprint Pro 3-Way Tripod using a ball-and-socket joint are very flexible and widely used but they must be fairly large and very well made to be satisfactory. In particular, the locking joint must be sturdy and the locking action precise and secure.

The platform, which is the part of the head on which your camera rests, should be large enough to support your camera without interfering with the use of accessory lenses. (It is not unusual for the barrel of a large-diameter telephoto or zoom lens on a 35mm SLR to extend below the body of the camera. This can limit its use on a tripod with a platform that extends well beyond the camera body, either interfering with the movement of the lens barrel or making setting apertures difficult. Ideally, a large telephoto should have its own tripod socket so that the lens is mounted on the tripod while the camera body is mounted on the lens.) Look for a platform about four to six inches in area—say, 2×2 or 2×3 inches.

A very useful feature is some type of quick-release system for mounting and removing your camera from the tripod head. One form uses a plate that screws into the tripod socket of your camera. You then simply slide the plate into a groove on the tripod head and lock it into place. Thus, instead of screwing and unscrewing your camera, you can mount it or remove it quickly and easily using the plate.

Centerpost
Centerposts come in two types, smooth and geared. The smooth type is raised or lowered by hand, then locked into position. The geared type uses a crank handle to move the centerpost up and down. The geared posts permit one-hand operation using the crank. Smooth posts must be moved with one hand while the other holds the tripod. We have not found one type of post to be better than the other.

Centerposts are invaluable for minor height adjustments. But don’t raise the post to its maximum height and use it to support your camera. This will change your support from a three-legged tripod to a one-legged monopod with a consequent loss of stability.

Legs
Ideally, legs should be of fully enclosed tubing. In general, avoid legs with an open channel. Locking devices should be easy to use and positive in loosening and tightening. Thumb nuts are somewhat faster and easier to use than ring tighteners but both types can be satisfactory if the tripod is well made.

Check the feet
The feet should offer a combination of pointed ends or spikes for outdoor use, and rubber tips for indoor use. Most tripods have some type of adjustable feet permitting the use of either as the situation requires.

my recommendations for purchasing a tripod are similar to those for other types of equipment is http://wize.com/tripods/. First, check various catalogs from major tripod manufacturers to become familar with available models. More and more tripods are part of extensive camera support systems offering a wide choice of combinations with tripods and heads being sold separately. Second, compare specifications and prices to see which models will fit your photographic lifestyle. If you travel extensively, for example, you might check out smaller, lighter tripods. If you use your tripod primarily indoors, you can settle on a larger, heavier model.

Well-made, easy-to-use tripods are not cheap. You should figure on spending between $100 and $150 for a good, basic model fitted with a two-way pan head. A low-priced tripod may look like its more expensive cousins but the differences in precision and convenience will become painfully clear the first time you try to use your cut-rate model.